An Interval for Cherry’s Cache

Some years ago…by a camp fire in Russia

Cherry’s Cache has been running since March 2020. In that time, I’ve written 107 posts – 108 including this one! That’s a total of around 233,000 words, or the equivalent of at least two novels. Maybe three.

I said at the beginning that this would be an ‘All and Everything’ blog and indeed it is. I’ve shared a variety of my favourite topics, mysteries, marvels and life stories with you on subjects ranging from alchemy to Black Country humour. And it’s also given me the incentive to research further into these and other topics, and to follow up new leads.

So I’m now going to put the Cache on pause for the moment. This gives me the chance for a breather, and to draw together new material – I’ll see how it goes in the next few months.

But in the meantime, please do continue to browse the 108 posts, and I’ll be delighted to receive any further responses from you. It’s warmed my heart to hear of posts which have perhaps inspired you or reminded you fondly of former times. Messages sent via the Contacts page are forwarded on to me and I’ll respond when possible.

Woman and Horse by Elling Reitan – from a limited print edition which I purchased in Norway. I particularly admired the alchemical elements of his art.

Here are examples some of the existing posts, to tempt you to explore further. And don’t forget, you can search for any title, topic or keyword using the search bar on the Home Page of the website.

Remarkable women

Anna Zinkeisen and the Zodiac Calendar
Noel Leadbeater and the Secret Army
Hope Bourne, A Wild Woman of Exmoor
Venetia Phair: the Woman who Named Pluto
A Pixie in Bude – Pamela Colman Smith, Tarot artist

Below, l-r: Anna Zinkeisen, Noel Leadbeater, Hope Bourne & Venetia Phair

Hidden Treasures
Angels in the Roof
A Tale of Two Samplers
Stories from the Christening Mugs 1
Stories from the Christening Mugs 2
The Legendary Art of the Russian Lacquer Miniature

Contemplative themes
The Moon Meditation of Kuan Yin
When the Egg Cracks Open
Encounters in the Bazaar
On the Ancestral Path
Eating Apples and the Distillation of Memories

Kuan Yin, goddess of mercy, aligned with the Moon and the Madonna

Mischief and Folly
Alchemy and the Trickster
The Fool and his Feast
Crazy Times in Cambridge
The Cosmic Zero: Getting Something from Nothing

Customs and Celebrations
Mayday in Padstow
At the Horse Fair, in Stow-on-the-Wold
The Coming Coronation 1 & 2
The Twelve Days of Christmas

Stories from the Family Tree
The Abduction of Mary Max
Refugee Ancestors: A Huguenot Family in Devon
A Coventry Quest: Finding a Grandfather
Seduction, Sin and Sidmouth: An Ancestor’s Scandal

A Writer’s Life
Writing for Jackie magazine
Keeping it simple with Princess Diana
The Perils of Publishing
A Poem in the Royal Albert Hall

Themed Series

Topsham
Tarot
The Silk Road

Just enter the key word (s) in the dedicated search bar to see the different posts in each of these series.

And the favourites?

Finally, what have the all-time favourite posts been? Which have attracted the most views? I love to look at the stats!
Without a doubt, the front runner is
Pangur Ban and the Old Irish Cats
Followed by Enoch and Eli, the Heroes of Black Country Wit
Then The Moon Meditation of Kuan Yin
And The Red Corner and the Symbolism of the Russian Home.

And which is the most neglected?
The Unusual Exhibition – one of the earliest posts about an exhibition where paintings and horses mingled. Do take a look! Bump up the views and enjoy some splendid art by my husband Robert Lee-Wade

That’s it for now! I look forward to seeing you all again later on. You can also find me at my author’s website, http://www.cherrygilchrist.co.uk.

Another print by Norwegian artist Elling Reitan, in my collection. Reitan’s work appealed to me because it carries a hint of alchemy and the elements.

Some of the books I’ve written which have been key to these posts:

Vintage Christmas Card Special

HAPPY CHRISTMAS!

I wish a very happy festive season to all my readers. By the time this post is published, the daylight in the Northern Hemisphere will be creeping back into our lives, little by little. Whether you celebrate the Solstice, Christmas or New Year – or all three – good wishes for the renewal that follows: health, light, love, happiness – and peace.

So this is one of my lighter-hearted posts, intended to cheer rather than to challenge. Welcome to the world of vintage Christmas cards!

The Collection

I have a collection of 45 old Christmas cards, dating from the late 1800s to around the 1920s. You might expect most of them to be decorated with colourful Christmas trees and little girls in bonnets, like the one above, but the majority are nothing of the kind. Some are safe and dull – holly was popular and uncontentious, but some are very curious indeed, pushing the Christmas card boundaries before the genre had really come into its own.

Whoever told the Boy Scouts that they had to hunt down their Christmas dinner?
This seems a far cry from the sedate images of holly and wintry scenes below.

No sooner had I written this post than I was given a pointer to the current Guardian newspaper, which has a wonderful article on macabre and murderous Victorian Christmas cards. These include a dead robin and one frog mugging another for money. Plus a girl who has been transmogrified into an onion. No holds barred on imagination! Mine are not so dramatic, but still entertaining.

The first commercially produced Christmas card, according to the Victoria and Albert Museum was sent in 1843 by Henry Cole, who just happened to be the director of the V&A, which is perhaps why there are other rival claims to early Christmas card innovators. (Eg a one-off card, replete with Rosicrucian imagery, sent by alchemist Michael Maier to James I of England in 1611.) Cole went for a proper print run, however, and commissioned his artist friend John Callcott Horsely to produce a happy scene of Christmas at the Cole family home. A thousand cards were printed – but at a shilling a time, they did not sell well. That’s about £3 in today’s money. Nor did the Cole family look particularly merry. (With the possible exception of the baby, who as the article in the Guardian points out, is drinking wine.)

Henry Cole’s family having a merry Christmas in 1843. Note the baby being plied with wine.

All the cards which now follow are from my own collection. Some that I have are indeed rather scary. Would you trust this snowman with an innocent child?

And Santa himself appears in some unusual scenes, such as this one, where he is superintended by a rather menacing polar bear.

Perhaps to counteract these bizarre scenes, there were also cards for the type of buyer who preferred to play it safe and put piety at the forefront. Or perhaps these were just leftover prayer cards – possibly even funeral cards – bought up cheap by the printers and rebranded for a Christmas market?

You may have noticed that on certain cards, some of the faces are photographs of real people. Did the card designer use stock photos for these? Or were they custom-made, so that you could have faces of your nearest and dearest transferred into the Christmas scene? I don’t have the answer. But anyway, here are two which feature real children on fake walls, then we have more real children with two fake snowmen.

But at least the next photographic pair of cards have reasonably pretty designs. (Either the horseshoe is very large or the child very small.)

There are only a few in my modest collection which show real artistry, or even just where the design has some flair. The card below isn’t one of them, but seems to be a case of: ‘Let’s see what we’ve got knocking around the place – ah yes an old vase – I’ll just pop out into the garden and fetch a few sprigs for it.’

But here are two at least which I think are very stylish in their design, dating perhaps from the early 1900s..

I wish I could say that the messages on the back are full of interest. Some of the cards haven’t been used at all, some contain very brief ‘best wishes’ type greetings. Here’s one which has laboured further:

With much love from (squiggle)
To Father and Mother with love and Best wishes for a Merry Christmas and a Bright and Prosperous New Year from your loving Daughter and Son Maggie and Tom Stephenson
(Daughter thinks: Phew – job done for another year! Why do I say daughter rather than son? Well, do you really need to ask that question?)

Another is somewhat lacking in panache – this one is addressed to Weston Supper Mare [sic]:
Dear Annie – received your present, safe. Like it very much be able to brush up now, won’t know me when you see me – Harry
(I’ve added some minimal punctuation) Any guesses as to what the present was? Perhaps it was indeed a hair brush to tidy up a scruffy suitor.

As a general rule, if there’s a printed verse on the cards, it must rhyme, whatever the cost in poetic or grammatical terms:
Pleasant times I wish
Happy day to all
In the humble cottage
And the stately hall

Or: Merry times and laughter flowing
With the Yule-tide log a-glowing
Fondest wishes dear to you
This glad season doth renew

Or even: I send, sweet little friend,
Although not near you,
This card with love thoughts laden,
And hope to cheer you.

Sometimes the card maker at least has the season firmly in mind, as in the first couple of cards below:

But others seem unaware that Christmas should be, well, Christmassy. Or at least festive. And wintry. It strengthens my suspicions that some cards were produced on an ‘all-occasions’ basis, ready to be printed in batches with whatever greeting was required – birthday, Easter, wedding, funeral, or christening, perhaps.

You might also be wondering why there are so many Dutch girls in these cards – to which I have absolutely no answer. This one appears to be selling roses or possibly tulips against the background of a storm at sea. Not very ‘bright and merry’ out there on the water.

And that concludes my current research into the vintage card collection – I can’t promise you a follow-up! But I can indeed wish you a happy Christmas, with a chorus of vintage greetings.

Other Christmas time posts:

The Twelve Days of Christmas

The Fool and his Feast

And the most popular post of all time on Cherry’s Cache which takes you into the depth of the dark night along with Irish cats and a poetic monk:

Pangur Ban and the Old Irish Cats

Finally, to close with music: this is one of my favourite Wassail songs, with its ancient feel, and the sense of the wheel of the year turning, ever turning…

At the Horse Fair, in Stow-on-the-Wold

Here’s my visual impression of the Horse Fair at Stow-on-the-Wold, a famous gathering each year where Romanies and travellers traditionally meet to trade their horses. The post is a tribute based on my own visit to the fair, fuelled by a fascination with such gatherings, rather than any specialist knowledge. We visited quite some years ago, and it may have changed somewhat since – though looking at other blogs and videos, not too much, it seems!

A chance to try out and indeed show off the pony traps, sometimes known as the ‘flash’

I have always been fascinated by accounts of gypsies. As a young student, I listened at first hand to folk song experts Charles Parker (BBC Producer of the Radio Ballads) and his singer friend Ewan McColl talk about their experiences of collecting songs from Romanies and travellers. They laughed affectionately about ‘Queen Caroline Hughes’, for instance; Queen Caroline was paid by them per song, and so she craftily mixed together verses from different ballads, producing new ones on the spot! The Ballad of ‘The Travelling People’ had just been recorded, and is still a classic production today. The most iconic song from it – ‘Born in the Middle of the Afternoon‘, which you can listen to via the You Tube link below. And a good write-up of the making of the ballad itself can be found here.

Trading on their names – I did indeed know Charles very well – I visited their friends the Stuarts of Perthshire, a family of settled travellers with warm hearts and hospitality for all comers. Later, I avidly read Juliette Baraicli-Levi’s first hand account of living alongside gypsies and studying their herbal lore. (I am saving Juliette Baraicli-Levy herself for a future ‘Wild Women’ blog, so will only mention her in passing here. Her herbal handbooks are still used as sources of wise information and advice.)

I’ve also sought out the chance to visit nomads in Turkey, Western China, Uzbekistan and Kirghistan, and retain cherished impressions of these. And I have treasured the experiences of watching women weave on portable looms, drinking ‘kumiss’ (fermented mare’s milk – very nice, actually) and climbing on a Kirghiz horse, ready in my imagination at least to gallop off into the rolling hills. Ah well!

With nomad Kirghiz horsemen by Lake Issyk-Kul, Kirghiztan

So my qualifications for writing about nomads or gypsies are personal, and wouldn’t hold water in any serious studies of the culture. But I can share some of these impressions with you, with my photographs of Stow Horse Fair, taken on a visit over a decade ago, and also make a few comparisons to other cultures.

There are usually a few traditional gypsy wagons or ‘vardos’ at the fair, but not many on our visit.

Why Stow-on-the-Wold?

Stow-on-the-Wold today is a small and charming town which has long served as a junction for several ancient routes traversing the Cotswolds, the hills in Gloucestershire and beyond. It was always well-placed, therefore, for trading. Some of the earliest goods carried along these roads were salt, fish, iron and charcoal, and its famous Fair goes back nearly a thousand years, with its official charter granted in 1107. The medieval wool trade boosted the Cotswold economy, and Stow became a centre too for not only local cloth and leather goods, but exotic imports such as silks and spices. (Another contender for the place which marks ‘the end of the Silk Road’, perhaps?)

After the wool trade declined, horses became the all-important commodity, and the October Stow Fair (held on or around the feast day of Edward the Confessor) established itself as one of the prime horse fairs in the country. Although the main horse sale has now been transferred elsewhere, this doesn’t seem to have stopped the private wheeling and dealing which was certainly apparent when we visited the fair. (You can read more about Stow and its fairs here .)

Below: horses put through their paces, tried out for riding and for pulling the different types of gypsy carts

A Gypsy Gathering

Today it’s also one of the major gypsy fairs and get-togethers nationwide, along with the better-known Appleby Fair in Yorkshire, and the Midsummer Fair in Cambridge. However, the Cambridge fair wasn’t a horse fair as such, as far as I’m aware, unlike Stow and Appleby, and has declined somewhat in recent years. To digress slightly, when I lived in Cambridge in the 1970s, at fair time the eponymous Midsummer Common was always crowded with a mix of showmen, travellers and locals. Stalls competed with dazzling displays of sparkling crystal, Crown Derby china, and elaborate ornaments of horses and the like, which were all beloved by the gypsies. It was a funfair too, where I was delighted to find some very ancient slot machines including what was most probably an Edwardian ‘What the Butler Saw’ peepshow. Showmen families were prominent, as well as gypsies, and there was always a special and well-attended outdoor Sunday service for all the travellers there.

Once, we saw Romanies of a kind that I have never encountered before or since – dark, lithe folk, talking in their own language, and squatting in in a circle to share their news. Were these perhaps ‘true’ Romanies, maybe from Eastern Europe, or Spain? British gypsies and travellers are only branches of a much larger clan – Juliette de Baraicli Levy writes about her time with traditional Spanish gypsies, along with those she met in the New Forest in England, and even in New York – which, surprisingly, hosted large colonies of gypsies earlier in the 20th century.

And in southern France too, the town of Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer hosts gypsy gatherings to celebrate the Black Madonna who lives in the crypt of the church. It’s a town well worth visiting, as Robert and I have done, but we haven’t yet seen it at festival time – we’ve been tempted to travel there then, but I’m not sure we’d stand the pace now! Revelry continues 24 hours a day…

The haunting face of ‘Sara’ the Black Madonna, patron saint of gypsies, at the church of Les-Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer in the Camargue, France. (Author’s photograph). Thousands of gypsies pay homage to her, both at the festival and throughout the year.

The Deal

There is indeed something universal about the trading that goes on among nomads, travellers and gypsies. I’ve observed striking similarities between the deals being done among the Uighur people of Western China, who I visited in the 1990s, and the horse-dealing in Stow. Look how intent the men’s faces are in both cases – keenly observant, guarded, speculative, concentrating fiercely on the potential deal to be done. And giving nothing away until they’re ready to seal the deal.

The pace can be fast in both venues too. In Kashgar, I nearly got knocked down by a Uighur horseman galloping his prospective purchase down the track. It was a bit like stepping inadvertently onto a racecourse. This young man at Stow seems pretty determined too.

The women of the fair

Admiring babies – note the old-style pram, which is still prized by travellers. The adornment of the pram can be a serious matter too, where the baby can be shown off in splendour. You can even find ‘Romany Pram’ as a category on EBay – eg at https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/bn_7023493960.

And what of the women? Well, many of them were dressed to the nines, and plainly enjoyed showing off their babies and catching up with the latest family news. But it wasn’t all cuddly infants and fancy outfits – as we stood at the top of a slope, looking down across the busy fairground, we noticed a sudden eddy of disturbance below, parting the crowds. A fight had broken out between two women, and people close by formed an impromptu wrestling ring for them. . The spectators rallied to the cause, shouting and cheering on two women who were going for each other hell for leather. For what, we shall never know – a rival love interest? An insult to the family? Faithfulness to a husband and loyalty to family are key principles among gypsy women. But we can be sure that, whatever the cause, these are fierce ladies, not to be taken lightly.

Above: The downward path where the fight took place and below, women taking time out together in the town centre

Below is a video, well worth watching, about how the Stow Fair has changed over the last few decades.

All such gatherings of nomads, traders and gypsies are likely to change over time, with a likelihood in the modern period of curtailing their age-old fairs and markets. I have visited the great Sunday market of Kashgar twice, but its splendour has since been diminished by the more recent persecution and forced detention of Uighurs in Western China. And a friend who used to visit Stow fair many years ago, remembers caravans parked all the way along the main road, a magical sight in the evenings when every van had a fire lit beside it, and people sat round to tell their tales. That practice has been stopped, and parking is strictly regulated now. Locals are not always happy to have their town taken over and new curbs are brought in.

The roadside fires may have gone, but the horses and the faces of character remain

But I hope the tradition of the Stow Horse Fair will carry on from one generation to the other. And if the opportunity is there, I may go and take another peek in October 2024!

Encounters in the Bazaar

The bazaar in Damascus, Syria, which I visited in 2006

The Life of the Bazaar

We think of bazaars as a kind of exotic marketplace, offering goods which may include interesting, rare and colourful items, from distant lands. Displays are often dazzling, whether of spices, silks or gold. Even an array of humble teapots can be elevated to an art form, as you can see in the photo below. And who could gaze at these coloured lanterns without being reminded of Aladdin, or Tales of the Arabian Nights? During a period when I used to visit the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul almost every year, I noticed that on each new visit there would be something exotic, new and striking on offer, hanging from the ceiling or piled up in tottering towers. Even in modern times, surprise and delight is intrinsic to the allure of the bazaar. This isn’t the first time I’ve written about the bazaar – as a long-time lover of the Silk Road and its markets, I’ve featured them on Cherry’s Cache, in blogs such as ‘The Bazaars of the Silk Road’ and Suzani from the Silk Road. However, this time I’ll be taking the life of the bazaar a little further, beyond that of tempting merchandise.

Yes, there’s more to a bazaar than buying and selling.

A book on the history of the Bazaar, as a place for traders, travellers and craftsmen, makes two significant statements:

‘When asked if he was ever lonely on his journeys, the British explorer and eminent Arabist Wilfred Thesiger replied that, in towns where he did not know anyone, he simply went into the bazaar and struck up a conversation with a shopkeeper. Tea would be brought, other people would join them, and he would be invited for lunch or an evening meal.’ (The Bazaar – Markets and Merchants of the Islamic World p45)

And the bazaar has a spiritual dimension. As the same book says, in relation to Islamic bazaars: ‘It is not by accident that the mosque is the centre of the bazaar.’ (The main bazaar of a city often has a mosque at its heart, or aligned alongside it, as with the great Umayyad Mosque in Damascus.) The mosque hasn’t always been just for worship, but has served other functions too, as a place where court cases might be heard, sick people treated, and students taught in a ‘madrassa’, for both religious and secular education. Thus the mosque combined with the bazaar can form the centre of a hub which is not only about trade, but also about social interaction, and spiritual aspiration. Historically, therefore, the Bazaar has always been a relatively safe place. Stallholders trust each other, and theft or aggression is rare.

When I visited Syria in 2005, just before the civil war broke out, I bought a gold chain from an Armenian goldsmith in the bazaar of Damascus. A friend from the tour came with me and by great good fortune she spoke both Arabic and Armenian fluently, so we had a fascinating conversation with this man, and he was well-disposed towards us. He told us that all his merchandise – worth a small fortune – was completely safe. He didn’t even need to lock up, although he did take sensible precautions, as nobody would dare to come in and steal from his shop. Of course, some of this might have been due to the extreme control exercised by the government, but nevertheless it makes the point that the bazaar is as safe a place as any. And further back in time, in 1969, when I was a student, I spent a summer in Istanbul staying with a family there, free to wander the city by day while they went about their day jobs. (And that’s another story!) As a long-haired, mini-skirted semi-hippy you might think was asking for trouble, with hot-blooded young men swarming the streets. But although I spent many hours and days roaming the bazaar, I never came to any harm – no one laid a finger on me, although of course I was pestered verbally in a good-humoured way from time to time. I also went into mosques, respectfully with my head covered, and was met only with kindness. (I did once get converted by mistake, but that’s yet another story…) This has some relevance to the story which comes later on in this blog.

Below: the great Umayyad Mosque in Damascus, which is situated in the area of the bazaar

The Appointment in Samara

So given the importance of a bazaar to the city, it’s not surprising that stories, myths and remarkable true life encounters may be set there. Here’s a philosophical twister, and a sharp reminder of our human limitations. The message is, most probably: ‘You cannot outwit your fate’. Or perhaps you’ll think differently? It is based on various ancient tales, and was recounted by W Somerset Maugham in 1933 as ‘The Appointment in Samara’.

Below: what is left of the magnificent ancient city of Samara

The servant speaks: There was a merchant in Baghdad who sent his servant to market to buy provisions and in a little while the servant came back, white and trembling, and said, ‘Master, just now when I was in the market-place, I was jostled by a woman in the crowd and when I turned I saw it was Death that jostled me. She looked at me and made a threatening gesture; now, lend me your horse, and I will ride away from this city and avoid my fate. I will go to Samara and there Death will not find me’.

Death speaks: The merchant lent him the horse and the servant mounted it and he dug his spurs in its flanks and as fast as the horse could gallop he went. Then the merchant went down to the market place and he saw me standing in the crowd and he came to me and said, ‘Why did you make a threatening gesture to my servant when you saw him this morning?’ ‘That was not a threatening gesture’, I said, ‘it was only a start of surprise. I was astonished to see him in Baghdad, for I had an appointment with him tonight in Samara.’

From the literary point of view, so much is packed into this short tale that it is often used as a focus of study. On one of the creative writing courses which I tutored, the course author had written a whole exposition of its structure and impact, concluding: ‘Here, in miniature, are all the things that we find in more detail in Shakespeare or Hardy: character, plot, an unexpected turn of events, a sense of fate and irony, and a climactic conclusion.’

A stone relief of the figure of Ereshkigal, Sumerian goddess of the underworld and death (British Museum)

Death as a Woman

And what about Death – who turns out to be female? Much discussion has taken place as to whether death is male or female – for example, see Death: personification. But certain cultures definitely do have a death goddess: the Slavs have Morana, the Goddess of Death, the Mexicans Santa Muerte, and the ancient Sumerians have Ereshkigal, goddess of Kur, the land of death. The Sumerian link is significant here, since that ancient civilization existed for around 2000 years until 2,300 BC, in the same region of Mesopotamia where Baghdad and Samarra were later founded, in what is now Iraq. The face of this ancient relief carving of Ereshkigal is gentle, but knowing, and resolute. Place a white robe on her, and imagine her wandering around that ancient bazaar, about to tell you, perhaps, with a touch on the shoulder, that your time is up.

The Sufi Apprentice Carpet Mender: Encounter in Thessaloniki

Byzantine remains in Thessaloniki

And now for happier encounters in the bazaar, but still with a sense of destiny, where perhaps a helping hand or a benign current brings us to where we need to be.

Before coming to the main account by my friend and fellow author Lucy Oliver, I’ll set the scene with a more transitory encounter, which took place in a carpet shop in Thessaloniki in Greece. This was set in a more modern indoor market, perhaps replacing an earlier bazaar. My husband Robert and I were on our way to join a cruise ship as guest lecturers, and were wandering round with time to spare before the evening departure. I am always drawn to old textiles and rugs, and on this occasion there was something about the set-up which tickled my interest. I felt it would be worth striking up a conversation with the owner. Indeed it was; here’s what I wrote later:

The old man sits in his shop of treasures. There are Chinese statues, a 13th century wooden figure of Kuan Yin, Uzbeki embroideries and rugs – many of them, for this is primarily an oriental carpet shop.’ (Kuan Yin is a key symbol for me, as a figure of compassion whose forms encompass both the Chinese goddess of mercy to the Christian Madonna. See my blog The Moon Meditation of Kuan Yin.

We are in Thessaloniki, which was once an important port on the Silk Road trading route. Robert and I are setting off on a Black Sea cruise, for which I am a guest lecturer. The city is a fascinating amalgam of old and new, Byzantine ruins alongside the modern shopping centre where we are now. But this shop is something different, not peddling cheap fashions or tourist souvenirs. The owner tells us his story with great dignity. I think he recognised my own interest in the wisdom traditions of Central Asia. He said:

“I was sent out to Afghanistan at the age of sixteen to train as an apprentice in a carpet shop, selling oriental rugs. I was told that I could either go to Iran or Afghanistan to learn carpet mending, so I asked my father what I should do. He was in the military, and he told me: “Everyone goes to Iran, so go to Afghanistan!”

“My master there was a Sufi. He taught me how to get up in the morning and seize the day. In fact, he taught me how to live. He was 82 years old, and had a great presence, great love. Even to this day I remember my Sufi master. If I have a question about what to do, I ‘ask’ him in my mind.

Mevlevi Sufis in their famous ‘whirling’ dance, with the sheikh of the order in the centre. (From my visit to the Rumi Festival, Konya)

What is Sufism?

Sufism is hard to pin down, but I would describe it as a way of wisdom which has taken root as an inner tradition within Islam, but which in fact may be a separate path of knowledge dating from a much earlier time. I am not a Sufi expert or scholar, but I’ve had my fair share of interaction with Sufis and the literature of Sufism, so I will express my opinion that it is a way, rather than a dogma, with the aim of living in the world, as best one can, with love and wisdom. It’s often been said that the wise Sufi master in your town might be the man you see sweeping the road, or who mends your shoes.

Sufis are generally open to those of other religions or none. A Sufi may follow conventional Islamic worship, along with holding Sufi rituals and gatherings, or go with their own sense of what is fitting for the service of God. As one Sufi sheikh (leader) pronounced: ‘Rules and customs are for the protection of the foolish; they do not concern me.’ (Witness – J. G. Bennett p 317) They are renowned for using music, chant and dance in their ceremonies, and there are generally considered to be twelve different orders of Sufis, all with their own approaches.

My fellow travellers examining carpets in a Sufi-owned carpet shop with Mehmet (left), who came from a local Sufi family and later became a close friend. (Author’s visit to Konya, late1990s)

Sufis in person

As for the Sufi we met in Thessaloniki – perhaps he would have been too modest to describe himself as a Sufi –his business was indeed very much in line with the strong Sufi tradition of carpet making and selling. In the 1990s, for instance, my husband and I met various Sufis in the carpet shops of Konya in Turkey, when we visited the town in December for the annual Rumi Festival. Mevlana Rumi, who has since become well-known world-wide, was a 13th century Sufi mystic and poet. He wrote in Persian, and lived in various parts of Central Asia, spending his last years in Konya. He founded his own order of dervishes, the Mevlevi, who are known for their white-skirted ‘turning’ dance. There’s a useful an account of his life, and his time in Konya in the World Pilgrimage Guide .

One of Rumi’s most famous poems is (in translation):

Come, come, whoever you are.

Wonderer, worshipper, lover of leaving.

It doesn’t matter.

Ours is not a caravan of despair.

Come, even if you have broken your vow a thousand times.

Come, yet again, come, come.

Pictures below: taken at the Rumi Festival in the late 1990s, with one of the author falling in love with a lion, just to add in something different…

In the heart of the bazaar: meeting the Helveti dervishes

I have been privileged to meet and to know various Sufis among both the Mevlevi and the Helveti orders. I’ve attended ‘zikrs’, the spiritual ceremonies which are usually accompanied by a combination of music, chanting and forms of movements or dance. But I’m going to hand over now to author Lucy Oliver, who describes her personal encounter with the Sufi tradition in the heart of the bazaar at Istanbul. This is very much in parallel with my own experience there. Lucy and I have known each other for decades, but only just discovered that we both had similar experiences in Istanbul, were looked after by the same contact – Mr ‘L’ – and attended the Thursday night Zikr ceremonies in the ‘tekke’ or dervish temple. How did it take us so long to realise that we’ve both had such similar encounters in the bazaar?

The extracts from Lucy’s diaries are set out verbatim, with her kind permission, and accompanied by her commentary on these, which is set in italics.

The bookshop in the bazaar of Istanbul

 From the diaries of Lucy Oliver

Monday 9th August 1976

This was a very peculiar and significant day, well in the tradition of mysterious Sufi encounters. I had been given the name of a contact, L, and had arranged to meet up with him in the bazaar in the early evening. I wasn’t sure exactly where, but figured I would find it following the directions I had been given on a scrappy bit of paper. The rest of the day I just explored as the fancy took me.

All day I have wandered through the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul, alone, unmolested, very happy.

Afternoon found me in the book bazaar, which was dappled by light from the vines overhead. There were other interesting little shops in this small section of the souk, but I was drawn by one bookshop in particular, stretching back into the shadows. I browsed the manuscripts and pictures displayed outside as if to buy, but of course had no idea of prices.  Somehow, I found myself inside the dim interior of the shop, still browsing, and was greeted by a slim charming man with enough English to take my enquiries very seriously, and who politely sat me down to show me some wares.

In the front corner, a cluttered desk was presided over by a large man who was eating chocolate cake, which he immediately offered to me. Embarrassed, as I had already realised purchasing was out of my league and felt rather a fraud being there and being served so attentively, I accepted the cake, and ate it under the eye of the large man in the corner. With no language in common, he twinkled at me in an amused fashion, watching me eat. My embarrassment grew, and cake disposed of, I awkwardly rose to my feet, made some appreciative noises, and departed as quickly as I could.

I went back to the hotel, changed into a skirt and long-sleeved blouse in the interests of respectful modesty (not noticing that the front buttons of the blouse were somewhat straining over my bust and gaping when I moved), and set off to follow the instructions to meet up with my Sufi contact. I bought some grapes in a brown paper bag to take to the Sheik.

But hours later, I had tramped the bazaar from end to end, been jostled by tourists, climbed cobbled streets ringing with hammer-blows (the metal-workers street) and was sweating in frustration as the grapes burst out of their soggy bag. The instructions I had been given simply did not make sense! I had a little hand-drawn map, but I could not orientate it to the vibrant life around.

Finally, as my despair was at its peak, I traversed an alley-way, and found myself back unexpectedly in the book bazaar. At this point, like a slow tide rising to my throat, an awful realization started to dawn. There in front of me was the shop I had entered earlier in the afternoon. It had to be the goal of my search! And I had been there already!

If I had been embarrassed on my first visit, it was nothing to what I felt then, making a second appearance, late, hot and sweaty, exhausted, and clutching a disintegrating paper bag of grapes! These I presented to the man in the corner, the man who had given me the chocolate cake, whom I later knew to be the great Helveti Sheik, Muzaffer Ozak. He looked even more amused to see me.  The grapes were carefully placed in a silver dish. Flowers stood on his desk, gold bindings on books shone through the dust; people sat quietly as L and others warmly displayed fine old manuscripts to customers. It was an atmosphere of absolute calm and beauty in the quiet vine-covered corner of the bazaar. Timeless.

When I left, holding a large heavy edition of the Koran and having been invited to come to a zikr on Thursday, I was quite ecstatic. The reality of it, the holiness seemed to follow me into the evening sunlight. Why am I tempted to waste my time in superficialities when such wordless depth exists?

Friday 13th August 1976

I shall always remember my last night in Istanbul. Dinner with L and his wife on their balcony overlooking the Bosphorus. So nice they were.

Then to the zikr. We lurched through the suburbs in a crowded bus, L and me, and an American girl full of impressive talk about her own Sheik back in the USA. She looked totally the part, modestly covered from neck to toe in a long djellabah. I tried pulling the tight sleeves of my blouse down a bit further and hunched my chest so the buttons did not pop open, feeling like a gauche imposter in this ‘proper’ company.

Somewhere down a back street, we left the bus, knocked on a hidden door, and were led past a shadowy tomb through a small door behind. Men in long black gowns were gathering, and I saw the Sheik of my previous acquaintance to one side. The men began their circle, and the chant and stomp gained in speed and intensity, which was fascinating. My critical and ethnologically-trained brain didn’t stop for a minute, as I strove to understand with the heart, a manifestation so unfamiliar. It was like a sophisticated version of African tribal dance. I understood, and yet did not understand. I think perhaps I never will be able quite to attain that sort of communion. I cannot ‘abandon’—yet.

It was so good to be among people who understand. L seems the only person of real intelligence I have met on my travels; it is so rare. But it saddens me, and tonight I felt a little sad and alone, that with all these people in the world, there are fewer and fewer now with whom I can know real communication, and more and more with whom any communication seems impossible. But I must not dwell on this; part of the price I guess.

Anyway, when the zikr was ended, the American girl was making full use of the chance to meet and tell others about her training and Sheik, so that when L was ready to leave with us, she seemed totally unaware, and he had to wait patiently until she dragged herself away. While waiting, Sheik Muzaffer beckoned me over and said something in Turkish. Looking me in the eye, he handed me a string of prayer beads made from olive pits. I thanked him awkwardly, and asked L what he had said.  With an air of slight surprise, L translated:

 “He said,: ‘You can come again’.”

I went away, hugging these words, said not to the ‘perfect’ visitor, but to the discomforted one with bursting buttons. I won’t forget.

 (With thanks to Lucy Oliver, who will be publishing this account as part of her forthcoming memoir)

Muzzafer Ozak’s bookshop, later run by his son and with a tribute left on display to him. I took this photo on a subsequent visit to Istanbul.

I will just add one recollection of my own to Lucy’s compelling account. Sheikh Muzaffer was also renowned as an interpreter of dreams, and during our visits, my husband and I were told we could each tell him one of our dreams if we wished. Mine was a recent dream which had perplexed me, as it seemed vivid and significant, but I couldn’t relate it to anything specific. In it, I was watching a white mouse run about the floor with a group of people, and then we were all on some kind of a journey to an unknown destination, but lost some of our party en route. To my surprise, the Sheikh told me that although what we were doing was pure and valid, I could not trust the people we were currently working with.  Someone would soon betray me. This I found hard to believe, but so it proved to be; a couple of the members of our Kabbalah study group endeavoured to undermine it, blocking further progress, and spreading unpleasant false rumours. We eventually had to disband, and start again in a new form without them. It cut me to the quick to discover that those I had trusted had betrayed our common purpose. But to have the Sheikh’s endorsement that our spiritual path and search were valid was a precious touchstone.

You can find here an account of Muzaffer Ozak’s life and work.

And so I finish by saying, ‘You never know what an encounter in the bazaar may lead to…’

All photos copyright by Cherry Gilchrist except for those of Erishkegal, Samara, and the colour portrait of Muzzafer Ozek.

For other posts on bazaars and the Silk Road, please use the search bar in the blog to locate others which aren’t referenced in this post.

Further reading

Books by Lucy Oliver:

Forthcoming: Diaries of a Young Mystic: Excavating the Intangible (working title; publisher to be announced)

Tessellations: Patterns of Life and Death in the Company of a Master – Matador, 2020

The Meditators Guidebook – Destiny Books, Inner Traditions 1991

Lucy Oliver’s website: Meaning by Design

General interest

The Gobi Desert – Cable, Mildred & French, Francesca, 1942

The Bazaar – Markets and Merchants of the Islamic World – Weiss & Westermann, Thames & Hudson, reprinted 2000

Stories from the Silk Road – Cherry Gilchrist, Barefoot Books (various editions)

On the Ancestral Path

Ancestral stone figures on Easter Island

In the last post, I suggested one way in which we can get to know our ancestors, by plotting the relationships between us, and contemplating the circle which they form around us. This current post now moves away from the charting of ancestry, to focusing on some of its spiritual aspects, and considering whether our line of ancestry may still play an active part in our lives.   As we now head towards Halloween, based on the ancient Celtic festival of the dead, it’s the season to speculate more about the possible dimensions of life and death, and how we may connect to these.

I’ll also mention the role of shamanism in connecting us to our ancestors. Shamanism is, in essence, an ancient belief system of inter-penetrating worlds of spirit, in which we can play an active role. It includes both animate and inanimate forms of life, in modern terminology, and the realms of both the dead and the living. The ‘religion’ of shamanism – using the term loosely, for there are many versions of it – may once have been widespread throughout the world in its various forms, fundamental to many if not most cultures, including the greater part of Europe. And it contains the belief that journeying between these worlds is possible, often with the assistance of a shaman. Although such travelling must be done with care, it can help us to access knowledge, including foreknowledge, the power of healing, and positive forces which can guide us through life in this middle world.

Birds are often thought to represent the flight of the soul – (illustration by Helen Cann, with artist’s permission)

The otherworld of the ancestors

In the Western world, although this shamanistic world view has largely been abandoned, there are still traces of it in folk lore and myth, as reflected in this ancient poem from the north of Britain. It reveals that a soul must travel a particular path at the time of death, to make the transition between worlds and reach its new dwelling place. Here in the poem, this sanctuary is that of Christ, combining the older world view with that of Christianity. (See Jeff Duntemann’s post ‘Understanding the Lyke Wake Dirge’ for a translation into modern English.)

A Lyke-Wake Dirge

This ae neet, this ae neet, (night)
Every neet and all,
Fire an' fleet an' candleleet,
And Christ receive thy saul. (soul)

If thou from here our wake has passed,
Every neet and all,
To Whinny Moor thou comes at last,
And Christ receive thy saul.

And if ever thou gavest hosen or shoen, (shoes)
Every neet and all,
Then sit ye down and put them on,
And Christ receive thy saul.

But if hosen or shoen thou ne'er gavest nane, (none)
Every neet and all,
The whinny will prick thee to thy bare bane, 
And Christ receive thy saul.

From Whinny Moor when thou mayst pass,
Every neet and all,
To Brig o' Dread thou comest at last,
And Christ receive thy saul.

From Brig o' Dread when thou may'st pass,
Every neet and all,
To Purgatory thou comest at last,
And Christ receive thy saul.

And if ever thou gavest meat or drink,
Every neet and all,
The fire will never make thee shrink,
And Christ receive thy saul.

But if meat nor drink thou ne'er gav'st nane,
Every neet and all,
The fire will burn thee to thy bare bane,
And Christ receive thy saul.

This ae neet, this ae neet,
Every neet and all,
Fire an' fleet an' candleleet,
And Christ receive thy saul.

As far as I know, there are no tunes extant to this old rhyme, althought various arrangements of it have been made. But this recording made by the Young Tradition folk group in 1965 resonates with the spare harmonies of earlier periods, and sounds like a ritual chant as it announces the path of death which must be trodden. This is likely to have been its original function, chanted over a dying or dead person, to guide their soul on its way.

And if you’re up for another song, this one was composed in recent years, but commemorates another very old custom. ‘The Old Lych Way’ tells of how a body in a coffin on Dartmoor had to be carried right from its home parish, perhaps a tiny hamlet on the moor, to the church at Lydford, which alone was authorised for burial. It could be many miles, for the bearers and the mourners to trudge. The song, by Topsham musician and friend Chris Hoban, is here performed by his colleagues in the folk group ‘Show of Hands’.

And after that, let’s move on from the death of the human body to what might be your ancestors’ presence in another realm.

The long line of ancestors

For many of us who embark on researching family history, it becomes more than just creating charts and checking out parish records. It can bring a sense of a living connection with our ancestors. When I was gathering material for my book Growing Your Family Tree, I conducted a survey for readers of a family history magazine, enquiring about their experiences of researching their family tree. Many of the respondents reported that after doing the ground work, they felt their ancestors were in some sense becoming ‘alive’ to them. And some also mentioned that strange occurrences began to happen during their research, such as unexpectedly discovering new family connections, as if the ancestors were eager to reveal themselves. It seems that when we start paying attention to our ancestors, various synchronicities and surprising events may happen.

The Welsh Voices

Standing among the ruins of the abbey at Abbeycwmhir, in remote mid-Wales, from where my Welsh line of ancestry primarily comes from .

Here’s one of my own experiences of this kind:

It happened one summer night, a few years ago. I had been working on my Welsh line of ancestry, trying to figure out the branch of the tree which I could now trace back to my 3x great grandfather, Edward Owens of Abbeycwmhir, the soldier in the Napoleonic Wars.

All that night, my sleep was disturbed by what seemed like a babble of voices. I heard people chattering insistently, and I knew that they were my Welsh ancestors. I could not make out what they were saying, but I had the distinct impression that they wanted to be ‘found’ again, and that they wanted their story to be told. Edward’s own insistence came through, and I inferred that his special wish was for his prowess as a soldier in the Napoleonic Wars to be remembered, and perhaps for his medal to be found again.

This might seem like fantasy. However, it made a profound impression on me, and within a couple of months extraordinary things started to happen. A seemingly random hit on a website for a Welsh chapel led me to finding two separate lots of new cousins, also direct descendants of Edward Owens, whose families were still living in the same region as my ancestors in mid-Wales. I had thought previously that everyone had moved away from the area. When I met up with Harold, my third cousin, he shook my hand, looked deep into my eyes, and said, ‘You’re the first member of the family to come back for a hundred years.’

I was swept into a whirlwind of activity on that first expedition. With these two families I looked at photos of my ancestors that I had never seen before, heard anecdotes about their lives, including those relating to a 2 x great aunt who was a midwife and a herbalist,  and shown of the local places associated with them. I also saw pieces of furniture actually made by our joint 2x great grandfather, who turned his hand to cabinet-making as the small stipend he received as a minister couldn’t support his family. Beautifully made, of polished oak, the cupboard and two tables took my breath away as I touched the work that my ancestor had created. After this, research went like greased lightning in the Powys Archives, and I was also able to trace the existence of Edward senior’s medal up until its last publicly-recorded sale in the 1970s. The speed at which all this unrolled was incredible. I felt that I had unlocked a door to the past, and that the wish of the ancestors to be known and acknowledged by their descendants had a kind of volition of its own, which fuelled my search.

All this has fed into my current network of family connections. Cousin Harold and I have kept up our acquaintance, exchanging cards and phone calls every Christmas. Likewise, I keep contact with others of the new-found cousins, one of whom ended up living very close to us for a while. My only sadness is that my mother never knew about this branch of the family. For the last thirty-five years of her life, she lived in Church Stretton in Shropshire, which was less than thirty miles from her cousins over the hills in Wales. She would have loved to meet her relatives there!

Cousin Harold and his wife Vera, standing outside their cottage in Kerry, near Newtown in Wales, close to the one once inhabited by my great grandfather

The Ancestors and our Spiritual Heritage

We are unusual in the Western world, where the prevailing culture doesn’t generally consider the ancestors to be a direct influence in our lives. Our deceased relatives are remembered fondly (or otherwise!), stories may be told about their lives, and graves tended for a while. But that’s generally as far as it goes. Many if not most other cultures around the world, however, consider the ancestors to be a living presence. Although they may inhabit another dimension, their world and ours can interact. This may at first strike the Western mind as naïve, or reeking of old-school Spiritualism, but if you study these different belief systems, it becomes apparent that they can be subtle and sophisticated in their appreciation of different forms of consciousness.

Connecting with the ancestors at a temple in Georgetown, Penang

And a sense of this interdependence can also be used for specific purposes. For instance, in Tuva, Siberia, if a man or woman feels called to become a shaman, they may try to draw on their connection with a particular ancestor who was a shaman, and link in to their power and knowledge as a source for their own initiation. Unlike some New Age perceptions of shamanism, it’s often a calling that a Siberian would rather not experience. The commonest way of realising that they are being compelled to become a shaman is through falling into a period of illness or intense suffering. It’s more a case of giving into the demand, rather than seeking it out. And in which case, a contact with an ancestor who was also a shaman may be the best way to tread the right path and set the seal on it.

In shamanism, drumming and chanting can be a way to communicate with the ancestors. This also means opening up the threefold world, and going beyond our human ‘middle world’. Spirits of the dead usually inhabit the world below, and sky spirits or transcended spirits inhabit the world above, according to this shamanic world view. And once this connection is established in a conscious way, the shaman has a pathway into the world of the spirits. It means that he or she can then regularly practice rituals to awaken the connection, which serves as a channel for wisdom, healing or prophecy, according to whatever is required by those who need their help.

The shamans’ ritual; Herel and his wife conducting a blessing ceremony in Tuva, Siberia

The Way Forward, with a contribution from R. J. Stewart

Shamanism is thought to be the most ancient of religions, and interest in it is growing again  in the modern world. There is an eagerness among many spiritual seekers to work with their own form of shamanism. But how do you go about this, and does it work? Can it be done by blindly copying the practices of existing traditional shamans – in Siberia, South America or Africa, for instance? Perhaps a more authentic way forward is to re-connect with our own ancestors, and learn from them if we can. Author R. J. Stewart, an expert in Celtic mythology and the Western tradition of magic, has kindly contributed this post which sheds light on a controversial question:

R. J. Stewart

Between the late 1980s and the mid 90s I had several meetings with Native American Elders, often to compare what is known as “Celtic” tradition today, with aspects of their multifold traditions. When the first contingent turned up unexpectedly at a talk I was giving in a bookstore in Greenwich, Connecticut, I felt as if I was on trial…as indeed I was. Subsequent private meetings relaxed into a degree of mutual trust, resulting in a potential invitation to join the World Council of Tribal Elders, to represent Celtic tradition, in a forthcoming gathering in Australia. The elders were especially critical of New Age shamanism, which they saw as form of alternative popular psychology, and not truly shamanistic. We agreed on that.

As I was unable (though not unwilling) to attend, the invitation was never formalized. A few memories of our meetings stand out for me, and we seemed to confirm to one another that a proportion of my Scottish ancestral traditions shared certain truths and magical practices with theirs. We talked a lot about revenge and forgiveness, ancestors and spirits. Two examples will have to suffice here:

1 – Spirits through the fire. During a convivial meeting with Grandmother Kitty the log fire exploded  into extra flame very dramatically then died right back only to resurge, three times. As in old Gaelic tradition, such manifestations are not commented upon when they occur, but silently acknowledged, perhaps with a slight nod of the head. The next day her apprentice (a mature woman) said “Grandmother instructed me to ask you how many spirits came through the fire last night ?”. I answered “There were three spirits that came through the fire… I sensed them, but could not tell what they intended”. That seemed to be acceptable. There was no “teaching” no “wisdom transmission” just mutual silent acknowledgement. At one point, though, Grandmother had said something that I could not fail to forget: “We do not want your people adopting our traditions. You have your own traditions to feed and care for. When your people are mature again within their own traditions, we can all come together in peace at last”.

2 – Ancestors: on another occasion, Big Toe Hears Crow looked at me and laughed. He said “We feel sorry for you white folks…you only have your miserable human ancestors. We have birds, animals, forests of trees, and even entire mountains”. He had a habit of humorous provocative utterances. And again: I was talking about the Wheel of the Year (at the bookstore mentioned above) and asked if anyone in the audience had examples in their own understanding or tradition. Big Toe quietly said “ Well, just like you, we have the East and the West, and then..hmm…yes… there is the South and the North. And there is a Buffalo in there somewhere, but the Buffalo moves around a lot”. 

Both of the elders that I mention here have passed on into the spirit worlds in the years between then and now. Not all of my ancestors are miserable, except perhaps some of the Calvinists. One “went native” in South Africa in the late 19th century, where he was renowned at spirit healing. He surely found a wandering Buffalo.

Note: The correct bovid name is “Bison” for North America, and “Buffalo” for Africa. But the ancestors do not seem to care.

R J Stewart 2023

Books by R.J. Stewart include The UnderWorld Initiation, The Well of Light,   and The Spirit Cord

Involving the Ancestors

I have written elsewhere about my own visit to a wise shaman in Kizyl, Siberia, in 2005 – see ‘Meeting the Shaman in Siberia’. 

During this session, with chanting and drumming, he endeavoured to drive out the ‘bad energy’ or misfortune, which he identified as lodging in my shoulder –indeed, I did tend to ‘shoulder’ burdens. I can interpret this in a straightforward way, since I’d had a period of trouble and ill health. However, just as the ritual involved Herel connecting with his own ancestors to help him, so I sense that my own ancestors may have been involved too.  

Shaman Herel in his consulting room at Kizyl, Tuva in Siberia

For several years before this trip, I had been researching my family history, which was mostly a pleasurable experience, with stimulating discoveries. However, quite early on in the process I had a different kind of experience, which I can only describe as a spontaneous vision happening on the borders of sleeping and waking. It seemed that a whole procession of dark, shadowy forms was marching right through me, coming in through my back and emerging from my chest. They seemed oppressive, somewhat sinister, and even threatening. I sensed that they had emerged from my ancestral past, and that something connected with fate was unfolding. It was a time when my own life balance was shifting in a profound way.

However, after the visit to Siberia some seven or eight years later, I returned to the UK via Moscow, and en route recorded in my diary:

Woke up 5am after 7 hours solid sleep – with an impression of my relatives and ancestors at my right shoulder, flowing out of it in a wavy shape like a kind of stream. A warm and light quality to it.

So perhaps the shaman’s ritual had actually relieved that heaviness in me, removing the weight of a negative aspect of my ancestry? At any rate, it certainly seemed that something had now been transformed.

The paths of ancestry may run deeper through our lives than we imagine, and it may be understood better than we might think by the ancient practices of shamanism.  I can only speculate how that works – whether, to put it in a rather crude way, a shamanic ritual can work like unblocking a clogged conduit, so that the water can run free and clear again. Perhaps it helps to balance out energies, as anyone’s ancestry is bound to be a mixture of forces, some outdated and needing to be left behind.

At any rate, the season of Halloween is an appropriate one in which to remember and honour our ancestors. Amidst the jolly, scary ghouls and witches trick-or-treating round the town, perhaps we can take time also to quietly recall those who have come before us on the ancestral path, and to cherish their memory.  They are not lost, for indeed, we all share one ‘common life’.

A modern take on Halloween from Topsham, Devon above, with an older depiction of an ancestor from Easter Island below. Perhaps they are not so different after all.

Acknowledgements:

With thanks to R. J. Stewart for permission to include his account of conversing with the Native American Elders.

And to Herel, the shaman of Kizyl, Tuva, who remains a bright presence in my mind.

Plus the organisation known as Saros, which explored notions of ‘common mind’ with the motto that ‘there is always somewhere further to go’. Its history and purpose can be discovered here. Offshoots of Saros can be found here

The month of the ancestors

For the month of October, I have prepared two posts on the deep past of our inheritance. Autumn here in the Northern Hemisphere now leads us towards the darkest time of year; many cultures celebrate festivals of the dead after harvest time, when darkness begins to prevail. Halloween and the Day of the Dead are probably the best known of these customs.

So in the months of declining light, our thoughts may track back more often to distant memories. And we might find time in those darker evenings to research the deeper areas of life, including our origins in terms of family history.

My own father was dying over Halloween, but he actually made it into the small hours of All Saints’ Day (Nov 1st). I was glad of this, as it is a day of more peace and less turbulence. At about 5am, I got the call to say he had passed away. But when I rushed out of my house in Bristol to drive up to Shropshire (too late to bid him farewell) I couldn’t leave straight away. I discovered that the chaotic energies of Halloween had been at work in the night, and my car windscreen was now smashed. However, perhaps none of us can pass on to peace without a breaking up of the familiar world around us. It seemed symbolic.

Listen to the spine-tingling ‘Soul Cake’ song sung here by the Watersons folk group. People would go door to door around the time of Halloween and All Souls’Day, begging for a soul cake.

The Circle and the Line

I have taken a different approach in each post. My first post here is about the ‘circular’ form of viewing our ancestry, which can open up a new perspective on our direct ancestors, through grandparents, great grandparents and so on.

The second will look at some of the more mysterious and magical aspects of ancestry, and explores the idea that it may still in some sense be present for us today, and that we can have a relationship with this. This is about the resonance of our ancestral line and how it may play a part in our lives.

The Circle of the Ancestors

As part of my degree at Cambridge, I studied anthropology. But although I loved the course, I was alarmed to be told that understanding ‘kinship systems’ was one of the most important elements of the syllabus. Really? I had hoped to learn about myths and rituals, songs and customs, maybe even a bit of magic or witchcraft… And it turned out to be rather heavy reading, untangling the complexities of who can be considered a brother, aunt, cousin, or potential marriage partner in each particular tribe. But anthropology certainly did open my eyes to other ways of viewing different systems of human relationships. I learnt that all in all, there is no one fixed pattern of how to define a family or a relative.

Kinship systems can indeed be complex and confusing!

All this can have a bearing on family history. By the time I came to research mine, in the early 2000s, I had forgotten the nuances of Nuer kinship degrees, but I did know for sure that there was more than one way to cut up the ancestral cake. This had largely been ignored by an older generation of genealogists in our Western Societies, who used to focus almost exclusively on the paternal line, which usually carries the family name. The ‘distaff side’, as the mother’s line was disparagingly termed, was often neglected. Why bother with it, was the general genealogical view, when the all-important family name could not be traced up and down the generations? (And heaven help us if there is a hint of illegitimacy! Better cover it up if possible.) However, in a curious way this practice actually benefited me, because my father’s diligent research on  his paternal Irish ‘Phillips’ line – including any distantly-related aristocracy that he could dig up –largely ignored my mother’s family history. It was thus new ground for me to investigate.

Like many other people, I didn’t care much about family history until both my parents had died, and suddenly I was next in the firing line. Perhaps this is commonly a time when we claim our family inheritance, in its intangible sense, along with any material goods left to us. It may turn into a job of stewardship, done according to our own beliefs, as it’s the oldest generation who tend to be the gatekeepers to the family stories, keen to impart the ones they choose, hiding the ones they don’t like.

We can and do change the lens through which we view our ancestors. Knowing this also offers opportunities to ‘choose’ our ancestors, in the sense of selecting that viewpoint. It can be argued that DNA is the sensible way to determine our family connections, but that doesn’t necessarily give us the full picture, since beyond a certain degree of blood kinship, DNA may not share common traits. And for many of us, the ‘story’ of the family is more important anyway, including members who’ve been adopted, born out of wedlock, etc. One branch of my Phillips family is linked to me by the story of two boys, cousins of a sort, who were taken into the main family home at Gaile in Tipperary, while their father purportedly went off to fight for the British in the American War of Independence. And yet, no one can quite be sure whether they were blood relatives – the DNA doesn’t confirm this – or illegitimate and more distant descendants, or even no relation at all, just welcomed into the family and taking its name. In the long run, does it matter? They are firmly embedded in its story now.

So I’m giving over this blog to one particular way of not only seeing, but experiencing the ancestors. It’s ‘the circle’ method, which I’ll now describe here in a slightly adapted compilation from my book ‘Growing your Family Tree: Tracing your Roots and Discovering Who You Are’.

Setting up your Circle of Ancestors

I first heard about this way of invoking your ancestors at a concert celebrating the life of John Clare, a poet who was himself firmly attached to his roots and ancestral landscape. One of the musicians performing there mentioned a family history project which his daughter had brought home from school. She had been asked to enter all her direct-line ancestors into a series of concentric circles, expanding from a central point representing the person in question to include each generation further back. In this case, therefore, the musician’s daughter, would be named at the central point, and her mother and father placed opposite each other on the first circle that surrounded her. The second circle would be marked with the names of her four grandparents, and so on through six circles in total, ending with a final circle containing sixty-four ancestors, all of whom would be her 4x great-grandparents.

It fired my imagination, and back at home, I tried to draw neat circles divided in the correct way, divisions doubling in each circle. It was tricky! Eventually, I achieved a rough template and started to fill it in. This was at a time when I hadn’t got so far with my family history, and inevitably I ground to a halt in different areas of the circle. There weren’t many 3x great-grandparents that I could name at this stage, and very few 4x ones. But the concept, of standing in the centre of circles of ancestors was compelling. I still come back to it frequently, and sometimes check to see if all those sixty-four are now included. (Not quite!)

Making a circle diagram for your ancestors

Creating the Circle: Exercise

See if you can create something similar, but I suggest a reduced version to make it more manageable, which will probably end at the circle of thirty-two. I find that thirty-two direct ancestors are plenty, if I want to know them as individuals, and discover their stories. Thirty-two are as many as I could hold in my mind at once, and as this diagram works as a visual aid and a tool for connecting with your ancestors, I recommend keeping it within practical bounds. Bear in mind that if you were to go some nineteen generations back, you would have over half a million ancestors in your circle!

Yes, we do indeed have thousands of direct-line ancestors!

Contemplating the Circles

Now you can start to make use of your chart. What does it feel like, to be at the centre of your ancestral circles? Try the following:

  1. Look at the finished chart (even if not all the names are complete); gaze at it for a few minutes.
  2. Then close your eyes and try to visualise it. Call up the names of those you know; this is probably easiest in terms of one circle at a time, your grandparents followed by great-grandparents and so on.
  3. Can you see in your mind’s eye a circle of sixteen, then thirty-two grandparent ancestors, even if you cannot differentiate each one of them? Which ones do stand out clearly? Which are shadowy figures? Which faces do you know, from your own life or photos, and which are as yet unknown?
  4. Acknowledge them all with gratitude and respect for the life they have passed on to you.

This is a powerful exercise, which can produce different types of effects. You may experience the ancestors as protecting and caring. But being surrounded by family in this way might also come across as suffocating and restricting. There is no ‘right’ way to experience it, and it may well be that you will find that it varies at different times. After all, this is on a par with family life – sometimes it’s the best support we can have, and sometimes it curbs and frustrates us. But if you keep this as an exercise to return to, you may find that your sense of being connected with your ancestors grows, and that in some sense, they become more ‘alive’ to you. Use the circle as a personal ritual to greet and get to know them.

The remote hills at Bwlch-y-sarnau, Wales, which is the landscape which my Welsh ancestors came from

As Awo Fa’lokun Fatunmbi says, writing in connection with the Yoruba people of Africa:

‘Communication with your own ancestors is a birthright….You cannot know who you are if you cannot call the names of your ancestors going back seven generations. Remembering names is more than reciting a genealogy, it is preserving the history of a family lineage and the memory of those good deeds that allowed to the family to survive.’

The wedding of my Welsh grandfather, Rev. Bernard Owen, to my grandmother Hannah Brown, of Devon and Midlands heritage.

Related blogs:

Seduction, Sin and Sidmouth: An Ancestors’ Scandal

The Ancestors of Easter Island

A Coventry Quest: Finding a Grandfathe

The Abduction of Mary Max

Farewell to Devon!

A couple of months ago, I mentioned that we were leaving Devon for Gloucestershire. Well, now the move has taken place. It’s just a week since we uprooted from Topsham, and are now in the process of settling into Minchinhampton. However, I can’t leave completely without waving a fond farewell to the county we’ve enjoyed exploring so much in the last nine years. It was actually my second time of living in Devon, but the first time in the 1980s was based more on the edges of Somerset and Exmoor. So this latest sojourn has allowed us to spend more time by the sea, and exploring East and South Devon. My files are full of photos saved from numerous visits, days out, walks and coffees-on-the-beach. (Not to mention crab sandwiches.) I’ve had to choose selectively, and with pictures that I hope you’ll enjoy. I haven’t tackled Dartmoor, which is a world in its own right, but I hope to do so in a future blog. As for Topsham, where we’ve been living, I’ve covered this extensively in at least seven posts focusing on the town, and Exeter also gets a good mention in a few of them. So here goes with fourteen of our other favourite Devon destinations. And just to make things easier – for me, rather than for you – I’ll display them in alphabetical order.

Budleigh Salterton

Our favourite destination for a Sunday morning coffee. Big choice to be made – from the Lime Kiln car park, shall we stroll to the end of the bay, and watch the swirling River Otter gush out into the sea? Or along towards the town, where you can sit on a bench under the red stone cliff and hear the sea eachoed back behind you.

We’ve rented a beach hut there twice, and when the Devon flag is flying by the boats, you can buy fresh fish. The pebbles are famous, being part of an ancient river that flowed across when France and England were joined – the estimated age of these beautiful stones is around 445 million years old.

Dartmouth

A joy to visit, but much further away, so we have usually gone there out of season, when the traffic is lighter. Crossing on the old chain car ferry from Kingswear is an added treat, and there are boat trips upriver to Greenway, Agatha Christie’s old home, and on to Totnes.

Luckily it’s not such a fierce place now as when this notice was erected

Dawlish Warren

A spit of shifting sand, eerily long, and a rewarding place for birders and walkers. At the inner end, by the road and even a train station, it’s a place for a holiday camp and seaside amusements. Beyond that stretches a mile and a half of dunes and wetland and, curiously enough, a golf course . It’s a struggle to prevent the whole area eroding, but it remains a nature reserve and groynes try to hold the sea and winds at bay. Some experts say it won’t exist for too much longer though. You can gaze across to Exmouth seafront from the Warren – or even catch a ferry from Exmouth to get you there.

East Budleigh

We never pass through East Budleigh without greeting ‘Sir Walter’, son of this village. If you stroll half a mile out along one of the lanes, you’ll arrive at Hayes Barton, the farm where he was born. The Raleigh family were settled in the area, and Walter’s father, also called Sir Walter, was involved in the tumult of the Prayer Book Rebellion in 1549.

Exmouth

Now we’re at Exmouth itself. Bustling, thriving, with both river estuary and a long, long sandy beach to enjoy. It has a cosy little cinema, and an up-and-coming Festival, which I am proud to say is now managed by my daughter Jess Magill! I’m afraid you’ve missed it for this year, but if you want to browse in happy anticipation of next year, here’s the link. When Robert and I were not seeing family in Exmouth, we tended to wander at the far end of the 2 mile stretch of beach, and sometimes up onto the cliffs there. We shall miss Orcombe Point!

Exmouth was also where I met Boss the Eagle Owl for the second time. (At a festival, not flying wild!)

Killerton

Killerton is just a few miles from the sprawl of Exeter, but it feels as though you’re deep in the countryside. It’s the former home of the Acland family, and now National Trust, with beautiful stretches of gardens and wilder parts beyond to be explored. Everyone is fascinated by the bear house! That’s the small, thatched one…and yes, they really did keep a pet bear in there at one time. We have loved getting an early burst of spring with the magnolias and camellias coming into flower.

Knightshayes

Yes, it’s another National Trust house which just happens to be next in the alphabet to Killerton. From here the Heathcote-Amory family could once look down across the estate to their factory in the wool-weaving town of Tiverton. Again, it’s another wonderful place to come in spring. We’ve brought grandchildren and picnics, and they were thrilled by the Gothic interior of the house, just right for a murder mystery. In season the walled kitchen garden is a marvel, and we’ve bought heritage tomato plants there like ‘Chorni Krim’ (Black Crimea) which gave us wondrous black fruits in our greenhouse. All photos on this blog were taken by me, apart from the one of the kitchen garden, since I was never there quite at the right time with my camera.

Kitchen Garden, Knightshayes, Wikimedia Commons

Lympstone

We shall miss the washing lines of Lympstone – the village on the Exe Estuary which looks as if it’s on the coast of Cornwall.

Otterton

And we’ll miss the charming cottages of Otterton, where we nearly bought a house….and then Minchinhampton beckoned us back again…

Salcombe Regis

This is Salcombe Regis, not to be confused with the town of Salcombe which is the sailing mecca much further down the coast. Salcombe Regis lies just beyond Sidmouth – the village is at the top and the beach is a long, long way down. Our walk was memorable. First, because we met the celebrated Olympic dressage rider Mary King on her horse in the village, which is where she lives. Secondly, because we got stuck in something a bit worse than a bog, almost a slurry pit, when we were attempting the descent via a badly marked footpath through the fields. Eventually we made it down to the beach, and enjoyed dramatic skies as we walked back along it to Sidmouth. This part of the Jurassic coast is prone to cliff falls, so do take care if you venture along the beaches here.

Sidmouth

And here we are indeed, at Sidmouth, conveniently next in the alphabet. I’ve chosen not to go overboard on the quaint 18th century Gothic cottages or the splendid Regency seafront, but rather to feature some nostalgic images of taking Very Small Grandchildren there, a good few years ago now. And in passing, to note that for Robert and I, our adult trips to Sidmouth nearly always ended up with crab sandwiches at Duke’s Hotel on the promenade!

South Molton

South Molton isn’t exactly a tourist destination, though it is one of the gateways to Western Exmoor, via Molland Common. We stopped there on such a trip because it has very ancient connotations for me. In 1980, my former husband and I made a brave (some would say reckless) move from Cambridge to Exmoor, settling with our children in an old Devon longhouse in East Anstey. I had no idea where to move my bank account to, so I chose South Molton, about 18 miles away. I thought we would perhaps go there to market each week…In fact, we virtually never went there, but my account stayed put, long past our move away from the area, right until a few years ago, because banks have now stopped letting you change your branch. And then I received the grave news that it would now be switched to Barnstaple (it’s there still, I think), as the South Molton branch was to be closed. Robert and I found the evidence indeed when we visited in recent years. The plaque on the right hand side of the wall says ‘Midland Bank’, because that’s what HSBC was back then, before it took on the rather dubious title of ‘Hong Kong and Shanghai’!

Teignmouth

Teignmouth is glorious. When you first visit, you may think it’s only a standard seafront, pleasant enough, with promenade, gardens, and white 19th century hotels. However, a friend took me round the town and introduced me to the Back Beach, a picturesque muddle of boats, nets, huts, houses, pubs and workshops. And over the river, via the ferry, to Shaldon, which is a kind of cute Surrey village in miniature, with its own cricket green – once a genuine fishing hamlet, now quaintly unique. Teignmouth also has its bohemian arty streets (ie scruffy but charming) and a splendid Victorian railway station. What’s not to like?

Tuckenhaye

We’ve only visited this delightful corner of South Devon once, for a wedding anniversary break. Tuckenhay sits on a creek which in turn leads into the River Dart. There’s a whole world of boats and creeks to explore – if one had a boat. I have also been much influenced by Alice Oswald’s lengthy poem ‘Dart’ – the voices of the river as it flows from upland Dartmoor to Dartmouth – so it was a treat to meet a different and very beautiful stretch of the river.

Woodbury Common

Woodbury Common is our nearest bit of wild countryside, a patchwork of village commons that have survived as one stretch of open heathland. At one point after the war they were threatened with becoming a municipal rubbish dump – now they are protected, and carefully managed to preserve flora and fauna. We have often walked over different areas of them. It’s surprisingly easy to get lost! But every now and then, you maybe be able to orientate yourself by a glimpse of the sea. In the pictures below, you can see Bog Asphodel – I had to turn to the flower book to identify this one!

It’s from Woodbury that I’ll choose my final image – watching the sunset fall over the view from the ridge of the Common, towards the Exe Estuary. I took this while on a landscape photography course – some thirty of us lined up solemnly along the hill top, waiting for that moment when the sun starts to dip below the horizon. It seemed miraculous.

All photographs in this blog post are copyright Cherry Gilchrist, except where otherwise indicated

Bridges that tell a tale

Bridges are more than constructions – they have a character, and stories to tell. They can change lives, influence people and places. Their presence makes a massive difference. In this post, I want to draw out some of these implications. What is a bridge all about? What kind of life is lived on and around a bridge? What is it like to be a guardian of such a bridge? Bridges, yield your stories, please!

From England to Wales

‘I build bridges for a living,’ said the middle-aged man with a fancy car.

It was 1969, and he had just given my boyfriend and me a lift across the new River Severn road bridge, from England to Wales. Bridges were therefore very much a topic of conversation.

Really? I had never thought of bridge-building as a profession before. Perhaps he meant it metaphorically, working as a mediator? But no, apparently he was a practical bridge builder, a specialist engineer.

It was less than three years since the first Severn Crossing Bridge had been built. Indeed, it seemed something of a miracle when we sped over this vast expanse of river. Previously the same journey had either meant a very long drive round via Gloucester, or possibly taking the little foot passenger ferry boat running between Aust on the English side and Beachley in Wales. We were students, going as far as we could, as cheaply as we could – we ended up pitching our small tent in a wonderful bay on the Gower Peninsula.

Three Cliffs Bay, Gower Peninsula – where we ended up by lucky chance, on our hitchhiking trip

Perhaps we were less sophisticated back then, but in more recent years I experienced a similar sense of the miraculous, when walking – or was it flying? – across the ravine on the new footbridge at Tintagel in Cornwall. The two sides of the cliff were connected by a land bridge in medieval times, but this collapsed centuries ago, and since then a steep scramble down and back up had been the only way to get across. But now, as one of the project managers says on this video: ‘It was just the most amazing moment, to be able to walk across that bridge and see a view that hasn’t been seen for five hundred years.’

Another captivating view at Tintagel, on the approach to the bridge, plus of course a meeting with King Arthur himself!

The River Exe

One story I’ve researched is that of the bridge over the River Exe, in the city of Exeter. I chose it as my special project during my training as an Exeter City Red Coat Guide.

The River Exe starts as a trickle in boggy upland Exmoor, near Simonsbath, winding its way down to the sea at Exmouth some 63 miles further away. The city of Exeter is just a few miles from the coast, and both the river and the nearby ocean have always been crucial to its history. In Roman times the city was known as Isca Dumnoniorum, the former territory of the Celtic Dumnonii tribe; the Romans made good use of river and sea for valuable import/export trading, and based their port about five miles downriver at Topsham – which happens to be where I currently live.

What’s in a name?

You’ll see from the map that the River Exe joins up with the River Barle just below Dulverton. So why should we take it for granted that the Exe swallows the Barle, rather than the other way round? As the Barle is a beautiful and major river in its own right, quite frankly it could have gone either way with the naming of the river! In which case we might now be talking about the city of Barleter. Not to mention Barlford, Barlminster and Barlmouth.

Below: some bridges upriver on the Exe, as it meanders across Exmoor; the bridge on the right is at Winsford

The  River Exe has charming wooden and stone bridges along its early lengths, but when it passes through Exeter itself, it has become broad, powerful, and often turbulent. Building a bridge here is fraught with difficulty. Flooding used to be common too, until modern flood relief schemes were implemented. So how might the Romans have managed, with travellers, animals and goods arriving at West bank of the new city?  There were probably ferries, and there was certainly a ford, but this was often dangerous to cross, even on horseback. A bridge would have been a necessity.

Mark Corney, a specialist Romano-British archaeologist, told me that the Romans may well have built a bridge of stone or stone and timber across the river at Isca Dumnoniorum, similar to others which they built in Europe, but no traces of it now remain. We can assume that this was eventually washed away, and that wooden bridges were probably built in Saxon and early medieval times, which were themselves destroyed even more quickly.  

The Roman bridge at Merida, Spain, which might be similar in construction to what the Romans built over the Exe

Building Exe Bridge

In about 1200, the first ‘modern’ stone bridge was built across the river, with some 17 or 18 arches. It was broad enough for the two-way traffic of horses, donkeys, cattle, carts, pedlars, and so on.  And it was imposing, at around 282 meters long – about two thirds the length of the old London Bridge. This medieval bridge served the city until the late 18th century. Part of it remains today, and the intrepid visitor can still walk across it, surrounded by a swirl of traffic racing around the new road system on the periphery. The river itself has been gradually channelled into narrower boundaries, so much of the old Exe Bridge passes over low-lying, but dry ground.

The medieval bridge over the river Exe in Exeter, allowing travellers from the West to enter the city. The river was shallower and wider then, and would have stretched right across where the grass is now. All that remains of St Edmund’s Chapel now is the tower, although it was in use up until the 1960s.

Building Bridges as a Virtue

The building of stone bridges in Britain during that medieval period was loaded with significance. It was a mark of charity for wealthy merchants to contribute towards bridge-building – in Exeter, the Gervase family, father Nicholas and son Walter, dug deep into their  well-stocked coffers to provide much of the money needed. It was probably a win-win situation for the merchant donors, as such a ‘modern’, safe bridge would encourage commerce, and flag up how well-equipped the city was to receive traders.

Above: The old Saxon pillar, probably once part of a cross located by the River Exe to offer spiritual protection for those trying to cross the river, in the days before there was an adequate bridge. Now in the Royal Albert Memorial Museum, Exeter

Praying for your soul – Chapels and Offerings

Crossing over water is always perilous; even with a relatively safe bridge in place, the gods or deity must be placated. It was common practice to throw offerings into the water before crossing a river, whether by ford, boat or bridge. Votive offerings such as coins have been found in the River Exe from different periods, along with an old Saxon cross, which might have marked the place where it was safest for travellers to cross the river. And sometimes, chapels were built on bridges themselves in the medieval period in Britain. There were originally three of these chapels on or by the Exe Bridge, of which only one, St Edmund’s Chapel, still remains, though it is now in ruins. St Edmund was rather an appropriate saint to choose, since he was a 9th century East Anglian king, who hid under a bridge to avoid capture by the invading Danes. In vain, alas, for he was caught and martyred for his faith.

Repair bills

The practical issue of funding bridges has loomed large throughout its history. (And still does – the 2nd Severn Bridge has only been free to cross since 2018, when the debt for building both bridges was finally paid off by toll fees.) Despite the relative stability of Exe Bridge, floods were still frequent, washing away stones and damaging the piers of the bridge. Tolls alone couldn’t pay for it all.  Just as it was an act of charity to pay for the building of a bridge, so too was it a worthy deed to leave money in your will for its upkeep. Even small donations were welcome – in his will of 1269 Adam de Collecotte, layman, left 6d to ‘the bridge of Exeter’.

Nevertheless, even on this well-maintained bridge, floods could still endanger life; in Tudor times a tanner called John Cove and his wife were swept away downriver on their bed when their house fell into the raging torrents! Apparently he managed to paddle the bed to safety, using  his hands and feet to steer it onto solid ground downstream. The servants, it’s reported, were not so lucky – they drowned in their beds.

Life on the Bridge

Living on the bridge: the last surviving houses which stood on Exe Bridge since the 1500s or so pictured in about the 1880s

A bridge wasn’t just for crossing, either. No, it was for making the most of in daily life too! Exe Bridge became packed with houses, again rather similar to the buildings on the old London Bridge and on other bridges in the UK – bridges where you could shop, pray, drink, live, or store your goods. Some of these buildings on the Exe Bridge lasted right up until the 19th century, and some still remain on a few other bridges in the country. There are still shops, for instance, on the elegant Georgian Pultney Bridge in Bath.

Above: Pultney Bridge in Bath; the small shops which span the length of the bridge.
Below: London Bridge in its medieval form.

The Long Drop

On the Exe bridge one building was known by the enchanting name of ‘The Pixy House’. The reality was not so pretty – this was in fact the first public toilet on the bridge, presumably with ‘the long drop’ to the waters below.

There was even a pub on the Exe Bridge, but along with that goes a sad story of some vagrants, who used to lodge there before peddling their ‘sulphur’ matches by day on the streets of Exeter. One night, in 1775, they accidentally set fire to their room while illicitly boiling a pot of brimstone with which to coat their matches. Some died of fumes, others when the roof burst into flames and collapsed. The pub, ironically, was called ‘The Fortunes of War’.

Holy Toll Gatherers

The seal of the bridge keeper at Exe Bridge

The spiritual significance of a bridge carried through to its mundane finances too. Hermits were sometimes appointed to collect any tolls due – it was probably mutually beneficial, since the hermit could gain from having a fixed lodging, and a modest income, and the bridge authorities would get their revenue. Most probably travellers wouldn’t usually dare to refuse the holy man what they owed! Hermits could act in other capacities too in their role as bridgekeepers –supervising repairs for instance, or acting as wise counsellors to passers-by. In medieval times they were not necessarily recluses, but often had a hut or dwelling at a cross roads, where they dispensed wisdom and were handed alms.

A less orthodox kind hermit was found on Exe Bridge, however – a female anchoress. In 1249, records relate that ‘a certain female hermit had shut herself up on the bridge of Exe and was obstructing traffic. Carts could not get by, to the grave damage of the city’s trade.’ And there she remained, for several years. It seems that no one knew quite what to do about her.

I would love to be able to wander back in time, visiting the shops on the bridge, chatting with the folk who lived there, maybe asking a hermit for a bit of wise counsel…and if I visit ‘The Fortunes of War’, I might even pay a visit to the Pixy House…

‘The View from a Bridge’

How does today’s bridge keeper feel about their task? – for there are still some of this ancient and noble calling? Here’s what one has to say:

Having worked on drawbridges for over 12 years, I’ve come to know how strongly many people feel about bridges in general. Just publish your plans to demolish or replace one, and brace yourself for the public outcry. People love to walk and jog across bridges, and many’s the time I’ve witnessed marriage proposals. Fishermen often have their regular spots staked out, and people love to hop out of their cars during bridge openings to enjoy the weather.

(‘The View from a Drawbridge)

Bridging Worlds

A bridge may in some sense may transport us from one world to another. In myth, a rainbow bridge can lead us into the realm of the gods) or a fiery bridge to the land of demons. Or a magic bridge may be conjured up to help the hero or heroine to escape danger. There’s a sense of this in real life too, when a bridge leads us from one country to another, as with the Severn Bridge from England to Wales, or from island to mainland, as with Skye in Scotland where a bridge has been constructed in recent years. Even a tiny bridge can have major implications, such as the one from the airplane into terminal, as you leave the strange world of mid-air limbo, and prepare to step onto new and solid terrain. Bridges are ‘liminal’ places – and perhaps if we linger a little more, or at least become mindful when crossing bridges, we might sharpen our perceptions of changing from one state or place to another.

The Unwelcome Bridge

Not all bridges are benign, however. In Topsham, downriver from Exeter, there is no bridge across the river Exe. So just imagine what it would have been like in the Civil War of the 1640, when General Fairfax threw up a temporary bridge across the River Exe at Topsham, ready for marching his enemy troops over to capture the town. What fear that sight must have caused to the inhabitants! Yesterday, no bridge – today, no one is safe. Capture it he did, though not for very long…

In the 1970s, a more permanent new bridge appeared across Exe upriver from Topsham – the M5 motorway bridge. Before vehicles was allowed on it, pedestrians were invited to walk over and admire the view. Today, the motorway brige, and the noise of traffic dominates the scene upriver from Topsham. Any new bridge certainly has an impact – in this case better for some, disruptive for others.

And another view – one from under the M5 bridge

Bridge awareness

Perhaps there’s no such thing as a bridge with no meaning or significance. And if we paid conscious attention every time we crossed a bridge we might experience this transition more intensely. Why not give it a try? Most of the time, it may be a relatively mundane experience, but sometimes it may be an intense challenge. It took me a huge attempt to overcome my fear to cross the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge in Northern Ireland. I clung on for dear life – it didn’t matter how safe it might be in theory, it felt like dicing with ultimate danger!

I’m plainly hanging on, as I cross the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge in a state of great trepidation!

Bridge Despair

Sadly, a bridge can sometimes be chosen as a place to end one’s life. The Exe Bridge of the 19th century (a replacement for the medieval one) was notorious in this respect, as we can see from various old newspaper reports. Mercifully, not all these suicide attempts were successful, though that in itself could be a serious problem. Until 1961, suicide used to be a crime in British law, so a failed attempt could lead to a jail sentence. However, judges often showed compassion:

1890 Edwin Cole aged 32, was arrested for trying to commit suicide. Witness said that at about half past nine in the morning he was standing on the Exe Bridge and saw the prisoner, suddenly throw his hat into the river, clap his hands, exclaiming, “The devil’s got hold of me.” He then threw himself into the river about fifty feet below. Cole was out of work, out of money, and rather drunk – when rescued by the witness and his friend, he said, ‘I did not want to swim ; I wanted to go to the bottom. I have had a lot of trouble, and I am tired of my life.” He was then referred to Sessions Court where he was discharged by a merciful judge after his ailing mother promised to look after him.

(A summary of the report in the Western Times).

Our modern-day Drawbridge keeper also sees the nature of bridges as a jumping off point, sometimes in a horribly literal way: 

Bridges also represent transitions. “Crossing over” is a euphemism for taking that journey from life to death. Perhaps that’s also why so many people use bridges when they’ve made the unfortunate decision to end their lives, a decision which, speaking from personal observation, is made far more frequently than is reported in the media, and is also a decision which they instantly regret, judging from their screams on the way down. (‘The View from a Drawbridge)

Occasionally, a woud-be-tragic story turns into comedy. In 1885, a young woman called Sarah leapt off the Bristol Suspension Bridge after a row with her fiancé, to what she imagined would be a suitably dramatic death . However, her billowing skirts acted like a parachute, and she landed relatively unharmed in soft mud, living to marry another and surviving to the age of  85 years.

One of the most famous bridges in the world, at Sydney harbour, Australia

Bridge of Hope

And finally, I return to the drawbridge keeper for this positive view of the bridge:

Perhaps my favourite bridge symbol, though, is that of hope. If you can just get over that bridge, you may find yourself in a better place on the other side…So in some ways bridges can represent a struggle, but one with the prospect of better things on the far shore. I find that inspiring. (‘The View from a Drawbridge)

Crossing the bridge at Tintagel, into a magical world….perhaps!

Shamans, Lunatics and a White Glove – A Summer Bulletin

This is the first time during the summer period that I’ve posted on Cherry’s Cache. I’ve been very busy with other activities, and preparations for a house move to come. So it’s time I put up a Bulletin Blog, with updates and with snippets of stories which might interest you. Plus some hints of what might be coming along later!

100 today!

Celebrate…my 100th post on Cherry’s Cache! This is it. Little did I think when I started this blog, back in April 2020, that I’d reach this milestone. (216,826 words later…Oh, not quite halfway to War and Peace then.) Thank you, readers! I really appreciate your support. 100 and rising.

The Shamans

I will be giving a talk on ‘Siberian Shamanism in Person’ on Sun July 16th – ie very soon! This will be in audio internet format, and all are welcome to join. It’s hosted from the USA by R.J. Stewart and Anastacia Nutt, in their ‘Salon of the Western Mysteries’ series. Registration costs, timings (BST 6pm) and all other details can be found here . I’ll be speaking about my journey to Southern Siberia, where I met a practising shaman and discovered much about the local traditions – the relationship to nature, the power of the spirits of the land, and other fascinating elements of native culture and cosmology. You can find some aspects of this in an earlier blog which I posted about the encounter at . The talk itself will go further than this, and there will be opportunities for questions. The app used is ‘Go To Meeting’, which is easily accessed via a link sent to participants. I’ll say no more until the day!

The Lunatics

Then – here’s an update on Marat Sade, as it was acted in Cambridge by a bunch of students (including me) in 1969, with the innovative, somewhat controversial theatre director Bruce Birchall. See my previous blog about the occasion. . Many of those in the original cast have contacted me with their memories of the production – an iconic event in our days at university there. Finally, Briony Garety – formerly Janet Young – sent me the golden document that I was missing: the duplicated, typed cast list of Who was Who. Do you recognise yourself in the list?

I like the high-handed instruction that the Programme ‘should be read before or after the event, and should not be brought on the night, please.’ I wonder if there was full compliance? I daresay the director felt it should be more of a ‘happening’ than a conventional stage production. Wielding a programme would perhaps diminish the immediacy of the experience, which was meant to be immersive, as we lunatics leered at the audience. (I don’t think we actually molested them, though.)

It was a momentous event and Bruce was a hard act to follow.

I’m the one with the long dark hair, top right…

And then – The White Glove

This week, I paraded with a contingent of the Exeter City Red Coat Guides in a procession which dates back 900 years – for the opening of the Lammas Fair. Last year, I visited with a fellow guide, and we decided to ask if we could join in. Our bright red jackets are born to march, after all! This year, the council invited us to do so.

Here’s the story of the Lammas Fair, taken from the Council’s own website.

And yes, I know that strictly speaking Lammas should be the 1st August (quartering the year with Halloween, Candlemas and May Day in the old Celtic and British traditions) but, well, Exeter decided to do it differently. Today’s parade marks the opening of the annual Craft Fair on Cathedral Green.

(The photos of the procession are mine, some from previous years; thanks to Red Coat Guide Susie Newton for the picture of us in action.)

From Exeter City Council:

The wonderfully quirky tradition of parading a big white glove through city centre streets was today maintained in Exeter. Lammas Fair was celebrated in Exeter and at the end of the occasion, the big white glove was hoisted high above Exeter’s historic Guildhall, where it will remain for the next three days. Today’s Lammas Fair saw colourful pageantry in the heart of Exeter. The event got underway at 11am, with the Lord Mayor’s procession of the Lammas Glove, including civic dignitaries and Morris dancers departing from the Civic Centre.

The procession travelled down the High Street to the Guildhall, where the proclamation was read out and the glove hoisted above the balcony… The annual ceremony of the Proclamation of Lammas Fair dates back to before the Norman Conquest, more than 900 years ago. The word Lammas derives from the Anglo-Saxon Hlafmaesse or Loaf Mass. Lammas Day, the festival of St Peter ad Vincula, was when the first fruits of the harvest were offered to the Church in the form of a loaf…The Lammas Fair White Glove was displayed during the Fair and was a sign of Royal protection of the peace. The large leather, stuffed glove was attached to a long pole and was decorated with ribbons and a garland of flowers. Prior to the hoisting of the Glove, a Proclamation was made to declare the Fair open. The Proclamation was issued at the time of Edward III in 1330. A Court known as the “Pie Powder Court” was appointed for every fair to deal with any complaint or other matter arising within the Fair….

And so the Lord Mayor solemnly warned us not to commit any crimes as we moved on to enjoy the Craft Fair displays…

Creative Writing Courses

Another line of work I’m involved with is tutoring Creative Writing Courses for Oxford University Continuing Education. I began teaching for the department back in 2009, took several years’ break in the middle, then returned last year. Might you be interested in taking part? Take a look here. I can’t guarantee that you’ll be able to choose me as a tutor (or choose not to have me!) but I can say that the courses are very well run, have a student intake of all ages from locations across the world, and give you a chance to develop your writing skills in a friendly environment. They also involve lively discussion, which you can take part in more or less in your own time, rather than having to be on line at a specific moment. My own tutoring revolves around ‘Getting Started in Creative Writing’, ‘Writing Fiction’ and ‘Writing Lives’, but there are plenty more to choose from.

The House Move

Our plans have now crystallised, and if all goes well, we’ll be moving back to Gloucestershire in the early autumn. We’re heading to Minchinhampton, the area we lived in previously. Just over a year ago, I was drawn back to the beautiful hills and commons in the area, and since then we’ve been re-connecting with old friends and deciding that this is the place we’d like to return to. Here’s what I wrote at the time: ‘Sweet Chance on Minchinhampton Common‘.

The Future of Cherry’s Cache

…is still evolving! I have more subjects waiting in the wings, which will be developed as and when time permits. I promised more ‘Wild Women’ – there’s a radical revolutionary ancestor who’s story I want to tell – and a dip into the relationship between alchemy and music. Bear with me. My posts will emerge once we’re settled in our new home, if not before. In the meantime, I love to receive your comments and emails. It’s great to know that there are readers out there!

All posts remain available to access and read. I check the stats and am delighted when there’s a flare-up of interest, say, in Black Country humour, or the art of Anna Zinkeisen . The posts are there as resources for future readers. Pangur Ban and the Old Irish Cats remains the perennial favourite.

That’s it for now! See you again before too long. And you’ll find a selection of my books on the internet. Here’s a few of them, below.

Hope Bourne: A Wild Woman of Exmoor

This is the first blog in which I’ll celebrate ‘Wild Women of Words’ – women who lived unconventionally, close to nature, and wrote about their own special pursuits. Here I’ll introduce you to Hope Bourne, whose writing was primarily about the wild landscape that she lived in.

Hope Bourne – reproduced by kind permission of Chris Chapman photography

A Personal Recollection

In the 1980s, when I was living near Dulverton on Exmoor, we used to buy the West Somerset Free Press newspaper. It was an all-purpose local newspaper, with the kind of headlines that didn’t shake the world. (The one which sticks in my mind was: ‘Rainfall breaks all records!’ Amazing, I thought – but reading on, I discovered that for the first time ever, it had been exactly ‘average’ for the last month. And ‘Hit and Run Driver’ was the villain who’d left a slight dent in another car and not left their details. But perhaps we should be thankful for such mild dramas in local life.


However, the newspaper also contained something unique – a column by one ‘Hope Bourne’. Was it a pseudonym, I wondered, as ‘Patience Strong’ had been a generation earlier, a pseudonym for Winifred Emma May who wrote morally uplifting, often cringeworthy poems for magazines. But I soon realised that Hope Bourne was indeed the genuine name of a woman who lived a very unusual life, immersed in the wild nature of Exmoor. At this time, Hope would already have been in her 60s. She lived remotely, more or less what we’d now call ‘off grid’, and walked miles over the wild moorland every day, sometimes shooting and fishing to catch her food. She was very knowledgeable about history and landscape, and not afraid to speak out from her own values, whether they were the popular ones or not.

Withypool, Hope’s nearest village


I learnt more specifically that she lived alone in a caravan on the site of a burnt-out farmhouse at Ferny Ball in the wilds of Exmoor. She had no transport, but would regularly walk the four miles to Withypool and back, to pick up essential shopping. She observed the changing seasons and the life of the moor in detail, writing and ruminating over the changes and sometimes painting or drawing what she saw – she was a skilled artist who had had professional commissions in her time. All this was the basis for her regular newspaper articles. And she shot rabbits for the pot, a firm believer in the old ways of the countryside. In this way, she was somewhat like the poet Ted Hughes, who hunted and fished as part of his immersion in the natural world, not backing away from the realities of where food comes from.

At this time, we lived in an old Devon longhouse, called Hawkwell Farm. It was no longer a complete farm with all its land, but we still had 10 acres – enough for me to fulfil a dream of owning a horse (or two), and keeping chickens, something which I’d loved as a child. Hope kept bantams around her caravan pitch in the abandoned farmyard. And according to her newspaper column, these bred freely and she often had more bantam chicks than she knew what to do with. So I plucked up courage and wrote to her. We could offer a home for one or two, if she liked?

Hawkwell Farm, a more recent photo, looking rather more well-kept than in the days when we had it. Below are a picture map of its old field systems which was painted on our dining room wall at the time, and the nearby Hawkwell Cross.

Hope did indeed like the idea. She had a couple of spare bantams looking for a good home. She invited me over to visit her and I in turn invited her to come back in the Land Rover with me to lunch, and see where the two bantams would be living. She accepted with alacrity – she was keen to see corners of Exmoor that she hadn’t visited before.

All this happened forty years ago, so my memory is a little hazy, but I remember being somewhat shocked when I drove up to Ferny Ball, to see the ruinous state of the farm surrounding her caravan. And we chatted easily – I was left in no doubt that she was a sharp-minded, lively woman with strong views. I do remember in particular her opinion of the stag hunt on Exmoor, already contentious at that time, and later banned. ‘You see,’ she said, ‘I view it as one of the last remnants of medieval pageantry.’  I had never thought of it that way before, but I mused on her perspective. The deer do need culling, as they have no natural predators such as wolves in this man-managed landscape, and the debate is usually over whether it’s better to hunt or shoot them. There are many articles about deer on Exmoor, and their welfare, such as https://wildaboutexmoor.com/exmoor-deer/ and, in my old friend the West Somerset Free Press. But for Hope to see it as part of the old ways of the countryside, and its rich traditions, certainly gave food for thought.

Red deer, as I photographed them on Molland Common, at the full extent of my zoom lens
An Exmoor pony, on Anstey Common

Hope had arrived on Exmoor as a child. She was born in Oxford in 1918, the illegitimate daughter of a school teacher; her father was an Australian soldier, who she never met, but thought that she probably inherited her ‘love of guns and horses’ from him. Hope and her mother moved to Hartland in north Devon in 1927, and eventually in 1951 to a cottage on Exmoor. With just a short absence after her mother died in 1955 (when Hope tried out life in Australia on a sheep farm), Hope then lived on Exmoor for nearly fifty years. It was a singular life, but not a reclusive one. She loved her life alone, but also welcomed company – remembered by others as a kind, helpful woman. She often helped out on the farms where she was skilled with haymaking, harvest, and working with cattle and sheep. Horses were also her love, and she created beautiful paintings of the Exmoor ponies, who roam semi-wild there.


For many of these biographical details, I’m indebted to Chris Chapman for his video ‘How many people see the stars as I do?’ You can watch a trailer for the film (see below) and purchase it from Chris Chapman directly, an account of Hope’s life and his friendship with her. I’m also grateful to Chris for permission to use his stunning portrait of Hope to open this account.

The Bantams Arrive

Hope and the ‘banties’ thus arrived at Hawkwell, and we gave her lunch and chatted – I wish now that I’d recorded or noted down more of our conversation. Sprite, the female bantam, along with ‘Cocky’ (a male surplus to Hope’s own flock) settled down nicely with our assorted flock of free range hens, and a few more bantam companions. Then a little later, I received a further letter from her, offering me another growing bantam.

Dear Cherry,

Many thanks for letter – it is so kind of you to let me know how ‘Sprite’ is getting on – I’ve thought about her so much. Thank you for being kind to her, and finding time to talk to her. Of course, everything must be very strange to her, but I’m sure she will settle down. I think your idea of making a little temporary enclosure for her and Cocky a very good one – it would keep them in each other’s company so that a ‘bond’ would form.

Now this brings me to say, amongst a lot of troubles I have had one bit of good luck: of the youngest small brood of this year’s chicks, all of whom I had assumed to be cocks, one has turned into a pretty little lightish-coloured hen, like the ones in the photo you showed me. So I am a little hen to the good. Would you like to have her? You would then have a trio again, and she would be company for Sprite – one of her own kind.

If you would like her, I suggest about Christmas time would be the best time to have her, as she will be fairly well grown then, and able to hold her own with the others.

Thank you too for my visit to Hawkwell, which I loved. I think it is a most beautiful place, and I hope that I may one day come again. Looking through some of my notes, I see that it is ‘Hawechewelle’ (?) in the Domesday Book and had land to 3 ploughs, with three ploughs there, three villeins, 4 bordars [smallholders] and one serf, (the villeins were the peasant farmers, so look around for three other farms nearby. The bordars were smallholders. The serf would be just a slave attached to the home-farm. The area of land is not so easy to assess, since early medieval land measurements and categories are complicated and often difficult to interpret.

Hoping to hear from you again before too long,

Hope L. B.

The early days of our hens at Hawkwell, while still youngsters, before the bantams arrived.

After that, I didn’t meet Hope again, which is much to my regret now. Our own country dream (more romantic and less committed than Hope’s way of life) came to an end when we moved up to Bristol in 1987, and we re-homed our menagerie. Schooling for the children, work in London for my husband, my growing involvement in singing early music– all these prised us out of our Exmoor idyll. Plus it was very hard work. We were not made of the stern stuff that Hope was.

Her letter to me, below:


I kept up with news of Hope through mutual friends from time to time, and eventually heard that she had had to give up her ‘wild’ existence. She was getting older, less healthy, and no richer either – the Poll Tax imposed by Margaret Thatcher, money to pay simply for being alive, was one of the final straws. She had been a fierce resister in refusing all State aid for all those years, and now she was to be penalised for this. As we now know, this hugely unpopular tax was abolished a few short years later – but by then it was too late for Hope. She thus moved into sheltered accommodation with the financial assistance of kind friends.

Hope’s Legacy

I have three of her books on my shelf: Living on Exmoor, Exmoor Village, and Hope Bourne’s History of Exmoor. Apparently Living on Exmoor was put together out of scraps of paper, packed up in a cow cake bag and sent on spec to the publishers! Luckily, they recognised it as something quite unique, and accepted it. Her writing can be a little on the effusive side, but I’m not surprised that it does sometimes go a little over the top – it is astonishing how she manages to sustain descriptions of nature and the landscape page after page. There are some truly beautiful passages, marked with sharp observations. From the chapter on May, therefore, in Living on Exmoor, which is particularly appropriate to the moment that I’m writing this, with the first of May in a couple of days’ time.

Everywhere the beech has burst into such a glory of living green as bewilders all the senses. Translucent, soft as silk, delicate as fluttering wings, holding the light in showers of pure green-gold – the beech leaves break over the harsh moorland landscape like a benediction, like a voice proclaiming life. Over hill and combe, all round the fields and about the grey-roofed farms the green tide flows and tosses, life from the brown shucked bud, life from the dead wood, life reaching out to the mounting summer sun. How lovely is the beech! No foliage is there more delicate in spring, no leaves so fiery in autumn, nor yet any tree stouter to face the winter gales….Now I walk home in the evening hours, with all the sky an ocean of endless radiant light…and see the hills dissolve in molten space, and all the leaves, each one a green translucent thing, a green light against the light. The sun sinks down and is gone. The horizon grows dark with a line of wind-twisted beech marching along its rim, far off and distant like a drawing. The sense of space and distance is enormous, infinite. It is like looking at a country far off in space and time…The dark sky-line against the light seems to draw one’s soul…Suddenly all things seem possible, for one feels a power that is more than mortal all around. It Is an awareness that is something beyond all human understanding.

The hollow drumming of a snipe comes strange and vibrant in the silence. I turn through the first field gate int the twilight, and the last sound of the night is the croaking of the frogs like inane laughter in the labyrinth of the bog below.

Hope became an esteemed figure in the landscape during her life on Exmoor. In 1978, Daniel Farson made a film about her. She thus became a ‘star of self-sufficiency’ for a while, but didn’t enjoy the attention – she didn’t want to be seen as a ‘back to the land’ hippy, but empasised that lived her way ‘out of necessity’. She never had much money; her grandfather’s will cut off any possible inheritance from her mother.

Since her death, her renown has grown year after year, and she is now a legend. Regular walks for visitors are conducted down the tracks that she walked, she features in Exmoor exhibitions, and has become part of the heritage of Exmoor itself. Our lives only touched each other for a short while, but I’m proud to have known her, and wish it had been for longer. Exmoor itself is imprinted on my soul, and now that we’re back living in Devon, I try to visit it regularly again.

The wild Exmoor uplands of Dunkery Beacon and the beauty of the beech trees in old Exmoor woodland.

For another illustrated article about Hope, with further details of her life, and emphasising her contribution to understanding nature and our place in it, see ‘How Many People see the Stars as I do?’ in The Return of the Native, a blog about Landscapes of Literature, Art and Song.